Monday 18 February 2008

H is for History

Kosovo might well be Europe’s newest country, though currently we’re still waiting for the international community to recognise it. Here in the Baltics Lithuania celebrated its own Independence Day last Saturday. Although most people might assume that this is from the Soviet Union, Lithuania actually celebrates 90 years since, in the midst of war and revolution, it first declared itself as an independent, sovereign democratic state. It had been a part of Russia’s Northwest Territory yet at the time was occupied by German forces.
Although the borders changed as Lithuania fought with Poland over the capital Vilnius, Lithuania enjoyed independence until the secretive Molotov – Ribbentropp Pact led to occupation by German and then later Soviet Russian troops. Lithuania finally regained it’s independence in 1991 during the break-up of the Soviet Union.
Walking through the snowy streets of Vilnius’ Old Town in the bright sunshine and past Signatories House where the first declaration was made it is hard to imagine Lithuania’s past. Young men try to impress their recent Valentine dates with their black BMWs and smartly dressed business men drink coffee or local beer in glass fronted cafés. Only eight days ago Vilnius held a meeting of NATO defence ministers.

Last weekend Lithuanians have been remembering the long, difficult and occasionally bloody history of its previous 90 years. Laisvė – freedom is very much a loaded and emotive word even amongst the young people and students who can’t remember those times. Many of them gathered in the capital’s Cathedral square for a free concert by some of Lithuania’s most popular singers. Every year the square sees thousands gather, waving the yellow, green and red tricolour, often in snow and subzero temperatures to declare their love of Laisvė and Lietuva. The concert was entitled 9 steps and each one does give a good overview of Lithuanian history over the last 90 years.

The Act of the creation of the state. This is when the then ruling council declared independence as above.
The Partisan War. What we would today term an “insurgency”. This ran from 1941 until 1953.
Romas Kalanta. In 1972, this 19 year-old student set himself on fire in protest of the Soviet Occupation.
Sąjūdis (1988) – Meaning movement (as in a people’s movement), this was a group of the Lithuanian intelligentsia with the aim to reform Lithuania and bring about cultural openness and political change.
The Baltic Way (1989) – Around 2 million Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians link hands from Vilnius, via Riga to Tallinn on the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.
March 11 1990, The Lithuanian Supreme Council declares Lithuanian independence from the Soviet Union.
January 13 1991, 14 unarmed civilians are killed as Soviet tanks storm the TV tower. Civilians barricade and form a human wall around the Parliament building.
May 1 2004 Lithuania becomes a member of the EU.
February 16 2008. Nothing actually happened on this day, except to remember the past 90 years and to remind Lithuanians of the cost of their freedom.

What the future holds for Lithuania and what the next steps might be continues to be a topic of much discussion for Lithuanians. Even today in the English language, Baltic Times President Valdas Adamkus is quoted as saying,

"…let us purify our aspirations from anger, hatred and short-lived interests. Let us be worthy of our state and nation: let us be the architects of a new Lithuania.
"Today we are walking down a path where we feel more secure from external threats than ever before in the course of our history. It is globalization and the rapidly changing world that create crucial challenges."


Cathedral Square, showing the clock tower and stage.

Close up of the stage showing important military people, the Lithuanian President, Valdus Adamkus and the Latvian and Estonian Presidents.



Tuesday 12 February 2008

G is for Gimtadienis and Greetings

On Sunday evening I got a text.
"Dalyte, rytoj darome siurpriza Adomui 8:30..."

(Dalia (a girl's name), tomorrow we're making a surprise for Adam).

I had been working over the weekend and hadn't slept for very long Friday and Saturday nights, so it was I looking forward to a lie-in and enjoying my birthday and a day-off at the same time. However, having been pre-warned I was showered, dressed and ready on Monday morning to receive guests.
According to plan, friends arrived with breakfast - oat cakes, croissants, bananas and apples and a feast of smiles all round. We laughed that I already knew they were coming.
I'm not sure it's a very cultural thing to do, but it's now the second surprise birthday breakfast I have taken part in and I can recommend it to anyone.
I've taken part in many birthday parties and celebrations in my time here in Lithuania. I think my favourite was Sergej's surprise barbecue party in a forest just outside Vilnius. It was exactly that - a lot of his friends in a forest, quite a way from anything with a barbecue made from half an oil drum. He arrived blind folded I think and then more people appeared from behind bushes and trees to greet him with a song. It was a hilarious time and one of the first chances to enjoy the start of the Lithuanian summer. It also involved something I have only ever experienced in Lithuania - the greeting circle.
The basic concept is that people in the circle say a few words to whoever is standing in the middle.
This might involve a serious speech or just a few words, such as "I wish you joy", "I hope you have a good year."
This basic form can be used at birthdays, weddings, celebrations of almost anything. I haven't been to a funeral yet. I don't think they'd do it there. The greeting circle comes in different levels of extremity; from the basic, whoever wants to give a greeting to the full blown, everyone present must say something and the person or people in the middle should respond with thanks and a greeting of their own.

For a culture that can be quite closed on first contact, this is the total antithesis. I've seen howls of laughter and full on tears as people have shared their stories and wished others fruitful and joyful futures.
For a young Englishman this can all be quite overwhelming, especially when you know you're going to have to say something and instead of listening to what the people before you are saying, you're watching your turn come towards you like a rabbit in the headlights of an 18-wheeler.

"Come on Adam, think, think, what new words did you learn in lessons last week? What greetings do you know? Oh no, he just said that one. Right think of something else. Something quick, easy to say, that needs no extra explanation and maybe no one will notice you..." Deep breath...
"Linkiu tau daug... išminties". Wisdom

Wisdom? Well, wisdom has become my standard response to these situations. Money, joy, happiness, a wife or a husband and success have normally gone by the time it comes to me. And let's face it, we can all do with a little bit more wisdom in our lives.
After a day of relaxing at home I made my way yesterday evening to Quiz Night at a local bar via Edgaras flat. We drank tea and at 19:20 I suggested we leave as we were going to be late. We walked out of his flat and soon afterwards walked into each other. "Where are you going?" I asked. "This way" he responded. I realised we weren't going to Quiz Night at all, but actually back to my flat where in the previous 30 minutes his girlfriend and various other friends of mine had let themselves in with his spare key and decorated the flat with balloons and again provided snacks and goodies for us to feast upon. This time the surprise really was kept under wraps. It is indeed a very strange experience to return only 30 minutes later to your flat and have it full of people!
I actually got away without having the greeting circle. However, I did receive two A3 pages with drawings indicating my future. Staying in Lithuania featured heavily, as did moustaches, teaching Russian and Lithuanian and a wife. In case you don't know, I am leaving Lithuania this summer, do not have a moustache, speak no Russian and don't yet even have a girlfriend...


This is me and my future wife about to commit suicide from the top of Gediminas' Castle in Vilnius.

This reads, "Adam teaching Lithuanian/ Russian languages". (I don't speak Russian and my Lithuanian's not worthy of a bow-tie yet.) I do like the moustache though. Maybe that will come true.

This reads, "Family...When? You know."