R is for Random

Here is a collection of observations and notes that so far didn't find themselves in any other letter. They are in no particular order and I will probably update them as well.

1. The first random point is a song. Listening to it always brings a smile to my face. Inculto's "Welcome to Lithuania" was a potential Lithuania's entry in 2006 for Eurovision. In words and pictures it summarises everything about today's Lithuania. I needn't write more, feast your eyes and ears.

2. In a small town called Ukmerge, on the way to Riga from Vilnius, there is a small shopping centre with the name Eifelis. Next to the name there is a small representation of Eifel's tower and the outside walls are covered with a map of the Paris Metro system. Pourquoi?

3. On the north-eastern edge of Vilnius there is region which is almost entirely made up of student dorms and university campuses. It runs west to east along a street called Sauletekis - literally sunrise. Although the dorms are currently going (slowly) through large scale renovations, it used to be that those in the East were the worst to live in and had the furthest to walk to the bus and trolleybus stops, thus requiring a longer walk and a longer journey to central Vilnius. Certainly not a welcoming way to start a day of studies, especially in the winter. I don't know when, but for as long as anyone can remember, the dorms located on the west of the street have been called "New York", that glimmering, glass-towered bastion of hope, freedom and big bucks! On the eastern side the area is known as "Kamchatka", an area of distant, possibly desolate Russia that most people only know about from a Risk board.
Nowadays, Kamchatka isn't such a bad place to live - in the dorms that is, I've no idea about the area in Russia - and it's where most of the Erasmus and international students live.

4. "How's life in Vilnius?"

"I've got no hot water at the moment"

"Oh? Can't you just turn it on? What's wrong?" What, indeed, is wrong? Coming from a country where each person heats their own hot water for their morning showers and for their central heating this is a perfectly reasonable question. However, in most flats in Lithuania (and across the former Soviet Union I should probably add), hot water for both washing and heating is provided centrally so you can't ever, in theory, run out. Hooray!

However, my hot water has currently run dry as a result of a pipe problem somewhere in the hair salon below me and there has yet to be any agreement with the authorities who fix these things, when they can go and fix it - at least that's as much as I understand.

5. Vilnius has a bronze bust of Frank Zappa - apparently the only one in the world!

Q is for Queen

17 October 2006
In the middle of Vilnius Old Town, normally quiet and sedate, snipers can be seen on the roofs, men with bits of telephone cables hanging from their ears walk amongst the thronging crowds, sirens wail and flags wave frantically.
Away from the crowds, in one of Vilnius University’s many courtyards, students and staff gather to watch the arrival of her majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Trumpeters herald the arrival of the Queen into the courtyard, led by the Dean of the University. She takes time to talk to some of the people gathered at one end, roped off. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly; people waving flags, a few cheers, and exchanges between friends, and of course her majesty and her interlocutors.
“Your majesty, we’re from England!!!”
With only the merest reaction she turned her heard and gently made her way towards two young, students, who, as they made clear with the eloquence of hoody-wearing, cider-drinking, bench-outside-the-co-op sitting, yoofs, are from England.
Fortunately, the overexcited Englishmen weren't rewarded with ASBOs, but a question.

“What do you do here in Lithuania?”
“We study Lithuanian language here at Vilnius University. We are the only British students in the whole university.”
“Yes, it’s true.” Confirmed the Dean.
“Do you enjoy it?”
"Yes, and we enjoy living in Vilnius, it's a great city", I answered in such a horrible chocolate box way. I wish I'd said something better, and not as 'nice'.
“And what will you do afterwards?”
Apply for the foreign office, your majesty, or some other government post, the military, or even for a large corporate institution.
“We don’t know”. She didn’t seem very impressed by that answer and moved on to the next members of the crowd.

Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II of UK, and President Valdas Adamkus of Lithuania.

P is for Panevėžys

In the middle of Lithuania there is a town called Panevėžys. Panevėžys is a town that I doubt any tourists go to. Should you go however, perhaps by mistake or to fill up with petrol on your way to Riga, there is a very Soviet feeling hotel in the very centre of town which offers a fantastic view of the city. Fantastic meaning, you can see the city and out to the forests around. The city isn’t exactly beautiful. When you have enjoyed the view - for which you just need to take the lift to the top floor, rather than book a room - you may find your ears ringing with the sound of classical music. Look up to the trees and lampposts to see, no not an angelic choir making a visitation, but speakers as part of the city’s initiative to make the centre a more peaceful environment.

In Lithuanian street folklore (urban myths) Panevėžys is gangster town. At least, it used to be. Now it’s a city which is sprouting huge shopping centres and supermarkets like a pubescent, newly-testosterone filled adolescent develops muscles on his shoulders. It’s what everyone else is doing, so let’s do it better and maybe it will even impress the ladies.

Panevėžys is also the home of Kalnapilis - one of Lithuania's most famous beers. It's personally not my favourite however, I am assured by a friend that the tour of the brewery is well worth it (book in advance to avoid a busy day!!).

Until very recently Panevėžys had it's own amusement park. I say park, it was more a handful of static rides. However, in it's abandonment it felt like we had entered a post apocalyptic nightmare…Or at least something to play on.

It might sound like I give Panevėžys a wide birth, however, nothing could be further from the truth. I have had many happy days in Panevėžys, running along the river with friends, playing on the amusement park, receiving a massage from a lady who looks like Yoda and despite being the same size had the same force-like strength, and for some reason, nearly always experiencing blue skies when I arrived.

Below is a a very creative and funny song about Panevėžys, playing on all of the common stereotypes. I won't translate the whole song, but the chorus goes, "Mama, buy me a pistol, I want to be a Panevėžeter"*

*This is my own translation of a person from Panevėžys, as in Londoner is a person from London

O is for "Oh no!", I can't think of anything right now.

Oh, I can't think of anything right now, so I'm moving on to P instead.

I may however write about my experience at the hospital. "Oh no!"