On March 23rd 1939 German warships pulled into the town of Memel. Later Adolf Hitler stood on the balcony of the theatre and announced to the predominantly German speaking population that the town was part of the Third Reich. You can still see the same balcony today, in the Lithuanian coastal city of Klaipeda. No, the balcony hasn’t been moved, but European borders and empires have.
Officially the city was founded in 1252 by Teutonic Knights. For almost 400 years, between 1525 and 1918, it was the Easternmost City of the Prussian Empire, interrupted by Swedish rule 1628-35 and Russian 1757-62.
It was administered by the French military on behalf of the League of Nations from 1918 with the aim of setting up an independent territory. However in 1923 it became part of Lithuania for the first time in its history after the latter took over the territory.
Lithuanians often say that Klaipeda looks more German than Lithuanian. Indeed, there are more redbrick buildings and sloping roofs (take a look at the central post office) but to my mind, Klaipeda is more a mixture of post-World War II, Soviet era modernist buildings and standard concrete blocks alongside modern glass-fronted buildings. As a strategic port and a base for German submarines Klaipeda was almost entirely raised to the ground during WW2. One of Klaipeda’s newest sights are the D and K buildings – a hotel and apartment block – named after their shape. They stand taller than any other building in Klaipeda and the views from the café at the top are fantastic – though the menu is less satisfying.
Today Klaipeda, Lithuania’s third city with a population of around 200,000, is a popular tourist destination. From here it’s possible to make the short journey to the Curonian Spit – an almost unique geological feature. or further up the coast to Palanga. In the summer, this town is all sea, sand, sex and sun – probably in that order of frequency. The sandy beaches are wonderful and the Baltic Sea less salty than those that wash against Western Europe. In the summer months most of Vilnius moves here, including MTV who broadcast from the beach. In fact everyone moves here and ends up sitting in traffic for hours as the town’s population bulges and the road network fails to cope.
In the winter there’s definitely less sun and a lot less sex. On one particularly bracing walk along the beach the sea had frozen in large chunks, about a foot deep and several feet across. These mini icebergs rubbed together making a sound like grinding plastic as the lapping waves underneath gently lifted them up and down. Approaching the entrance to the port of Klaipeda was like witnessing a huge Slush Puppy. Fishing boats and cruise liners sailed perfectly normally across the dark blue and green sugary syrup in and out of the port.
If you needed yet more reasons to visit, on the northernmost tip of the Curonian Spit, a brief ferry ride away, is a Dolphinarium. You could almost be in Florida!
Officially the city was founded in 1252 by Teutonic Knights. For almost 400 years, between 1525 and 1918, it was the Easternmost City of the Prussian Empire, interrupted by Swedish rule 1628-35 and Russian 1757-62.
It was administered by the French military on behalf of the League of Nations from 1918 with the aim of setting up an independent territory. However in 1923 it became part of Lithuania for the first time in its history after the latter took over the territory.
Lithuanians often say that Klaipeda looks more German than Lithuanian. Indeed, there are more redbrick buildings and sloping roofs (take a look at the central post office) but to my mind, Klaipeda is more a mixture of post-World War II, Soviet era modernist buildings and standard concrete blocks alongside modern glass-fronted buildings. As a strategic port and a base for German submarines Klaipeda was almost entirely raised to the ground during WW2. One of Klaipeda’s newest sights are the D and K buildings – a hotel and apartment block – named after their shape. They stand taller than any other building in Klaipeda and the views from the café at the top are fantastic – though the menu is less satisfying.
Today Klaipeda, Lithuania’s third city with a population of around 200,000, is a popular tourist destination. From here it’s possible to make the short journey to the Curonian Spit – an almost unique geological feature. or further up the coast to Palanga. In the summer, this town is all sea, sand, sex and sun – probably in that order of frequency. The sandy beaches are wonderful and the Baltic Sea less salty than those that wash against Western Europe. In the summer months most of Vilnius moves here, including MTV who broadcast from the beach. In fact everyone moves here and ends up sitting in traffic for hours as the town’s population bulges and the road network fails to cope.
In the winter there’s definitely less sun and a lot less sex. On one particularly bracing walk along the beach the sea had frozen in large chunks, about a foot deep and several feet across. These mini icebergs rubbed together making a sound like grinding plastic as the lapping waves underneath gently lifted them up and down. Approaching the entrance to the port of Klaipeda was like witnessing a huge Slush Puppy. Fishing boats and cruise liners sailed perfectly normally across the dark blue and green sugary syrup in and out of the port.
If you needed yet more reasons to visit, on the northernmost tip of the Curonian Spit, a brief ferry ride away, is a Dolphinarium. You could almost be in Florida!
The D and K buildings - obviously!
Part of Klaipeda's old town
The Post Office
Part of the Old Port. Still fully operational.
Where you might have lived as a 19th century fisherman.
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